Monday, March 14, 2011

Travel Report Part 1 Helsinki

One and a half weeks ago we began our travel to three cities in three countries.

Our flight started around mid day from Dublin Terminal 1 with SAS, Europe's most punctual airline, to Helsinki. They didn't disappoint. We started on time and arrived even a little bit earlier than planned in Copenhagen. The connection time was 45 minutes and perfect. It allowed a short visit to the toilet and shopping for beverages for the next leg to Helsinki. The flights were both very pleasant.
Helsinki Vantaa Airport is very efficient. We were at the Arrivals Hall within half an hour. We took a mini van to our hotel. The price was fixed and gets cheaper the more people travel in the car. For two persons it was 26 Euro. The taxi driver was female and asked, if it was our first trip to Helsinki, which was the case. She showed us on the way some of the sights, directions to the harbor, the shopping area and told us which trams were stopping in front of our hotel.
We arrived in the early evening and the first impressions of the Klaus K were good. It is a design hotel and member of the same organization. The check in was uncomplicated and relaxed. The receptionist wrote on the card jacket the room and floor number (the elevator opens to different sides, so it is important to know, if you are staying on Level A or B.) as well as the internet code (free access). We had a Mystical Room, the entrance room, and it is not big (20 square meter), but the concept is very good. There was a small wardrobe including safe to the right and the entrance to the bathroom to the left. The bed was queen sized and had typical Scandinavian pillows, small, but three of them. Below the window a desk was placed, containing the mini bar (Not to our taste. Why? Too much alcohol, only a small bottle of water, one small juice and a vitamin water, the rest was all soft drinks or alcohol), all information about the hotel and Helsinki. Unfortunately there isn't enough space for a chair, so the desk is used more as a storage space than writing desk. To compensate for it, there is a "rollaway" table pushed over the bed or as I did push it to the chair in one of the corners and use it to write there. Our view was over the courtyard. There is also an LCD screen in front of the bed with a few international TV Channels like CNN or BBC World.
The bathroom is very small with a sink, toilet and shower. The shower is only separated with a curtain, but the floor has underground heating and the water is quickly evaporating or flows away through the drain. My original fear was that the use of the shower causes flooding, but it wasn't the case and I was very happy. Bathroom amenities are from Malin & Goetz and provided in environmental friendly large dispensers. The products are excellent and I was looking forward to use them every day. Officially Malin & Goetz is not available in Finland.
In Room Dining is available 24 hours, but the selection is very small and there is a 10 Euro service charge on top of whatever you are ordering. The hotel has two restaurants; Ilmatar serves breakfast or can be booked for functions and Toscanini, serving Tuscan cuisine.
We had dinner twice at Toscanini and every time it was absolutely fantastic. My fiancé had twice the same; I had a different main course. We shared the antipasti platter with salami, artichoke, marinated onion, sun dried tomatoes, ham, cheese and much more. On the first evening I had risotto with tiger prawns, on the second pasta carbonara with a twist, instead of bacon the chef used spicy Italian sausage. My better half had the pasta roll filled with ricotta and ham. Our desserts were tiramisu and panna cotta. We had wine from Apulia once, the other day we had juice. One can also choose a four course dinner with fish, meat or vegetarian, but the portions were so big, a three course was perfect. It seems unheard of in Finland that you want bottled still water. When you ask for it you get tap water, but it is crystal clear and tastes very good.
Another observation is, if you order entrecote, it's generally to share. The price is either quoted for two persons or per person, so don't be surprised, if you see 52 Euro for entrecote (South American Restaurant near main train station) for two persons or 27 Euro per person at Toscanini.
The four course meal costs, if I remember correctly, 48 Euros per person or nearly double, if you want it paired with the suggested wines.
The hotel also has a bar, sometimes there is live music.
There are also two meeting rooms available and a 24 hour shop, where you can buy Finnish specialties.
The next morning we had breakfast (available during the week until 10.30 hours) at Ilmatar, serving organic, traceable and mostly Finnish produce. If you like omelet, you have to pay extra for it, if breakfast is included in your overnight rate. Boiled and scrambled eggs are free. There is a choice of black coffee, green, black or white tea. There is an extra charge, if you want cappuccino.
The buffet offers cold cuts (including sauna smoked ham from Finland), cheese, pickled cucumbers with dill, fish, fruits, fruit salad, yogurt (much more fluid and the whole opposite than Greek yogurt), pastries, fruit soup, jams, juices and much more. The variety changes every day a little bit.
After breakfast we went exploring. It was cold and snowing a bit, but stopped after maybe half an hour or so. It turned into a beautiful, sunny and surprisingly mild day. First we passed the Swedish Theatre and a few designer shops, the Kaemp Hotel, a member of Luxury Collection Hotels, the Glo Hotel and went on to Senate Square. It is dominated by the Cathedral. The building and the interior are very beautiful and highly recommended to visit. The interior is understated, but looks stunning.
We moved on to the Bank of Finland, located behind the Cathedral and admired the statue of Johan Vilhelm Snellman, a statesman, by Emil Wilkstroem (1864-1942). It still bares the marks of Russian bombings during World War II at the foot. We also saw the building of the 4th Estate and followed the street until the end and we were at the sea. The sea was frozen over and it was interesting for us to see that. It never happens in Ireland.
We returned the same way and went to the main train station. It is in Art Deco design and looks very good. It's understated, but on the other side a grand building. It has one unique feature. Should the president of Finland take a train he/she has an own lounge, but the location is secret, of course.
The KIASMA, the Museum of Contemporary Art, is nearby. On the way you see the Post Office and Post Museum.
The architect of the KIASMA was Steven Holl, an American. It is inspired by Japanese Zen. The architecture is flowing, feminine and very well integrated. I loved spending time there, alone to marvel at the lines. When the building was finished in 1998 it cost 38 Million Euros and is adding an extension at the moment, so some floors are closed.
Entrance to the museum costs 8 Euro per person. We saw Saraa Ekstrom's "Limbus" and Tidelines. Both exhibitions were inspirational, sometimes eerie and interesting. They were different from each other. We had lunch at the cafe, which was great. We had huge turkey and cheese sandwiches and shared a cheese cake. There is also a salad bar or if you have larger hunger, they can also prepare hot meals for you.

In front of the museum is the statue of Marshall Mannerheimer, the sixth president of Finland. On our way to Finlandia Hall, architect Alvar Aalto, we passed the Parliament Building. Finlandia Hall is undergoing restoration at the moment.

It was late afternoon and we decided to return to our hotel, but to make a stop at the Kaemp for a drink. Unfortunately all spaces at the bar were full, so we just had a quick look around and then walked to our hotel.

The next afternoon we took a taxi back to the airport. It cost slightly less than 40 Euro.

To sum it all up: Helsinki is a great city to visit. It has to offer something for everybody and is walk able. Would we return to the Klaus K? Definitely. Maybe we are going to try out a new room type, just to gain more experience.

Look out for the next part of our itinerary.

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